Years ago, many indoor gardens had only one light in the flowering set-up. That is not the case today. In this article, Casey Jones Fraser explains how to power up all your lights without blowing a breaker…

Fifteen years ago, the big debate was whether or not to have a separate room for vegetative growth. These days, most growers know that a healthy vegetative garden is key to the flowering phase. So, with the trend toward raising more and healthier vegetative plants in order to increase the flowering garden, the need for more lights has risen as well. Growing with multiple lights gives options like perpetual (or, staggered) harvests, side-by-side comparisons and bigger production. However, while many growers would like to take advantage of these options, not everyone knows how to meet the electrical requirements involved. 

Most rooms in residential homes have one or two electrical circuits with 15 A per circuit. If you have two circuits, this limits you to two 1,000 W lights or four 600 W lights. If you only have one circuit, you can get away with a single 1,000 W light or two 600 W lights. So, how do ambitious growers seeking numbers like four, six, or eight HID lights in a garden power these things without blowing breakers?

That’s where lighting control boxes come in to play. The boxes are like beefed-up power strips for grow lights. Running on 240-V power, lighting control boxes allow growers to plug in multiple lights on a single circuit. These units have two power cords: one big one that powers the grow lights and a small “trigger cable” for connecting to a timer. The trigger cable does not power any equipment; it simply triggers the on/off switch for the control box. Some control boxes omit the trigger cable and incorporate a built-in timer instead.

Voltage

The standard electrical outlets in your house operate on 120-V power. This is the voltage for powering toasters, televisions, computers, etc. Electric stoves, dryers and other high-powered appliances use 240-V outlets. 

The ballasts that power HID grow lights can operate on 120 or 240 V, but they must be wired specifically for the matching voltage. Many electronic ballasts can be used on either voltage with no switching or rewiring. Still, always check the label on the ballast to avoid damage.

Higher voltage translates to lower amperage, and that allows for more lights. When ballasts are functioning with double the voltage, the amperage is cut in half. For example, a 1,000 W HPS light uses 9.5 A when plugged into 120 V. When that same ballast is operating on 240 V, the amperage is 4.75. That means you can plug in another ballast without blowing a breaker.

With a 30-A circuit at 240 V, you could safely run up to five 1,000 W lights. Would you rather grow with two lights or five? Just think about the harvests!

Please note that this is not an electricity-savings technique. Grow lights use the same amount of electricity regardless of the voltage. Switching to 240 V will not reduce your power bill.

Power options

Go look at the cable on the back of your dryer. That is one big power cord. When you are dealing with 240 V, the large power capacity requires a large cable and outlet. One of the best ways to run a lighting control box is with a dryer cord. Many indoor gardens are set up near a laundry area so that dryer outlet is conveniently located nearby. 

If your basement has a dryer outlet, visit a quality hydroponics store and ask for a lighting control box with the correct style of dryer cable to match your outlet. Mount the box and plug in the big power cord. The control box will have power outlets for the ballasts. Make sure the ballasts are setup for 240 V and then plug them into the lighting control box. The final step is plugging the trigger cable into a regular 120-V timer. The lights are powered through the dryer cable, and the trigger cable turns the lights on/off.

With those four steps, you can run multiple lights with minimal effort. All of the lights are controlled by the single timer.

Stove outlets can run even more lights. While dryer outlets often have a 30-A circuit, electric ranges typically boast 50-A outlets. At 240 V, the larger amperage allows growers to use eight lights with plenty of headroom. Just picture eight ballasts plugged into one box and one timer.

If you are comfortable adding breakers to the electrical panel in your house, you can skip the outlet and simply hardwire your lighting control box. Simply run a length of solid-core cable directly from your breaker panel to your growroom and wire that cable to your control box. Note that you will still need to plug the trigger cable into a 120-V timer for on/off cycles.

What about laundry?

You may be thinking, “I’d love to use my dryer outlet or stove outlet for grow lights, but I use my dryer and stove!” No problem. Qualified repairmen can tap into either of those outlets and run a cable from your kitchen into your growroom, where the lighting control box is positioned. Your appliance stays plugged in, but the grow lights are wired to the same circuit. The important thing to remember, however, is to never run your appliance from that outlet while the grow lights are on. So, if your grow lights are on at night, do your laundry and cooking during the day.

If you need access to your appliances 24/7, your best option is to hardwire the device to your breaker panel. This gives your grow lights a dedicated circuit, so no other devices can cause the breaker to trip.

While I am not a licensed electrician, I am able to safely and legally install such devices in my home with ease. If you have no experience with electrical repair, get a qualified installer to add a circuit for the garden.

So, don’t be afraid to run multiple grow lights. You will need plenty of fans, air conditioning and various growing supplies to go along with the lights, but the big harvests are always worth it. With lighting control boxes, adding more lights is a snap. Check your local grow store to see these boxes up close, and ask about various power options for your garden.

When fruits have a complex, layered flavor, you know the grower finally got it right. Here’s how to do it in your own garden...

Every good grower wants to get the best possible flavor out of their hard-earned harvests. Some might try adding carbohydrates to their nutrient recipe—that’s a pretty good idea, but flavor and aromas are built by much more than just carbohydrates. Let’s take it step by step and learn all of the treats available to build phenomenal flavors in plants.

Vegetative growth

In the early phases of your plants’ growth, the best path is complete overall health. Give your plants a mild feeding of base nutrients (NPK plus micronutrients), silicates, amino acids, enzymes and beneficial rooting inoculants (fungi and bacteria). These types of products will build a strong root zone and vascular system capable of producing all of the natural terpenoids, esters, polyflavinoids, etc. involved in overall taste.

If your crop is harvested in the vegetative phase, such as lettuce and basil, there are a couple of extra steps you can take. First, add some carbohydrates. Go with a highly available, clear, hydroponic formula for the vegetative phase, and use the product at low rates. If you are harvesting the entire plant, like a head of cabbage, stop feeding it nutrients one week before harvest.

Transition to flowering

Once you begin the switch into flowering, you will need to make adjustments to your nutrient formula. For overall growth, flowering plants use more nutrients with increased potassium and reduced nitrogen ratios. Use high-quality nutrients for overall health, which is always the first step for taste (and everything else you want from your plants).

Organics are often credited with giving excellent flavor, and I have experienced positive results from several all-natural nutrients and supplements. There are two main factors to consider when using organic products: first, organics are broken down over time; and secondly, they are broken down by bacteria, fungi and enzymes. With this in mind, I highly recommend applying organics in combination with beneficial microbes and enzymes. Use these ingredients early in the flowering process; organics are somewhat time-released, so you don’t want to apply them late in the game. Microbes digest the organic matter and feed the results to your plants’ roots over the course of a few days or weeks.

Some of the natural ingredients that can bring out deep, natural pungency in your plants include molasses, cane sugar, fish products, kelp, humates, fruit extracts, sea minerals and compost. For the best possible flavor, seek a nutrient program that offers all of these ingredients. (Those of you who have never used fish products or sea minerals: prepare for a delicious new flavor experience. Use these ingredients properly, and you will be able to smell your tomatoes before your even step into your garden space.)

Mid flowering

This is the stage when many growers burn their plants. Sure, your plants can take an increased level of EC or PPM in mid flowering, but this does not mean you should double your nutrients rates. The plants store nutrients in their tissue; so, if you give them too much, raw nutrients are still present in the fruit when you harvest. Thus, overfeeding your plants will replace rich flavor with bland taste. If you want to increase nutrients at this stage, take baby steps. Don’t increase nutrients by more than 150 ppm each week.

Continue using organic supplements in this stage, but start eliminating those products that are high in nitrogen. Blood meal and fish products should be reduced half-way to harvest—possibly even eliminated—as they can encourage leaf growth over fruit and flowers. Liquid carbohydrates should be used at full strength during mid flowering, but always use carbs in combination with beneficial bacteria. Carbohydrates encourage the growth of bacteria and fungi. If you do not incorporate beneficial bacteria and fungi into your garden, these carbohydrates might join up with bad bacteria and rot. Rotten roots don’t foster tasty fruits!

Late flowering

Now is the time to reduce your nutrients. Many growers are probably scratching their heads at that statement, but we are talking about maximum flavor here and too much fertilizer is a detriment to that end. You want your plants to tap into their food reserves and convert their stored nutrients into flavorful fruits and flowers.

Regarding nutrients, NPK levels with slightly higher phosphorus can help encourage oils and balanced overall ripening. Those factors are obviously important in peak flavor. Many nutrients and supplements are available for this specific late phase of your garden, and as long as you don’t overuse them, the increased essential oils and even ripening will make your mouth water!

Sweetening agents should be limited to clear, highly available carbohydrate products, as well as sea minerals. Kelp, humates and other thick organics should be reduced or eliminated in the final stages of flowering. Heavy organics might not have time to break down completely before you harvest.

Pre harvest

If you grow with organic-based nutrients, stop feeding your plants at least two weeks before harvest. Water often and always use chlorine free water. In the last week, you will need to rinse your roots thoroughly with large amounts of water. Continue passing water through the roots until the runoff water tests below 300 ppm. Keep the watering free of nutrients for these final days for the cleanest possible end results.

For growers who feed with chemical nutrients, make sure you rinse for at least one week before harvest. The same rules apply concerning lots of water and low ppm. Some rinsing products exist on the market that will chelate salts that have been left over or built up in the roots. Once chelated, these salts can be rinsed away. Use rinsing products for the first day or two, but then switch to plain water (chlorine-free, of course) for the last few days.

A few more points

You will never experience perfect flavor if you aren’t giving your plants high-quality lighting and an ideal growing environment. If your plants are stricken with mold, bugs, disease, overheating or nutrient deficiencies, carbohydrates alone won’t do the trick. Grow the healthiest plants possible, and the flavors and aromas will flow naturally. From there you can start adding all of the wonderful flavor-inducing supplements available at your local hydroponics supplier.

In his recent article on indoor greenhouses, Casey Jones Fraser mentioned rising grow tents off of the floor. If you don’t know how to construct such a sturdy stand, check out these instructions on how to elevate your entire garden in an afternoon… 

Even if your indoor garden doesn’t involve a grow tent, you’ll probably need a table at some point. A garden table needs to be sturdy and the exact size for your space, especially when dealing with valuable plants and equipment. Metal stands are available in the hydroponics industry, but they are often expensive. So, if you need to raise your flood tray and are on a budget, you can use these instructions to design and build your own custom table that is capable of supporting hundreds of pounds.

Tools and requirements

For tools, you will need a drill and some bits. Lumber and screws are the only materials required. (Also, if you don’t own a circular saw, get your lumber cut at the hardware store for a nominal charge.) For the stand I’m going to “build” in this article, I need four 8-ft. two-by-fours and a 4-by-8-ft. sheet of 3/4 in. plywood.

A small amount of experience is preferred over none, but you still might be able to get through this project if you have never built anything before. Always ask a professional for help if you need it. Oh, and don’t forget your safety goggles (damn sawdust)!

The basic steps

First, measure the object that will be supported. For this article, I am trying to rise a grow tent that measures about 54 in. wide by 30 in. deep. To make sure the tent won’t get knocked off the edge, I will design the table with the slightly bigger footprint of 60 in. by 32 in.

Second, consider the items (reservoir, chiller, supplies, etc.) that will go under the rack you are building. For most reservoirs, 2 ft. is more than enough clearance, so this may be a good height for your stand. Also, check the ceiling height.

To start constructing a stand with the above dimensions (60 in. wide by 32 in. deep by 24 in. tall) pre-cut the two-by-four boards into pieces as follows:

Rear: 2 x 60 in.; 4 x 21 in.

Left side: 2 x 33 in.; 2 x 21 in.

Right side: 2 x 33 in.; 2 x 21 in.

To build the side frames, connect the two 33-in. two-by-fours—which act as top and bottom boards—with the two 21-in. planks. Similarly, the rear frame has the two 60-in. two-by-four boards as top and bottom planks, with the four 21-in. boards placed upright in-between the top and bottom. For all frames, mark the locations of each upright on the corresponding top and bottom boards so you will know where to drill your pilot holes (before drilling, to make sure the upright locations line up on both the top and bottom planks by setting them next to each other).

Once the back and side frames are built, trace them on the sheet of plywood. Measure an extra 3 in. of plywood on one edge for the side frames. This extra flap of plywood will allow you to connect the sides to the rear frame, creating a more solid support for the table. Cut out the plywood pieces and screw them onto the frames, and connect the side frames to the rear. Then, measure and cut the plywood top, and add it to the base.

Your heavy-duty hydro stand is now complete.

A word or two about materials and design

Be sure to get decking screws for this garden project because you might need to change the dimensions or dismantle the table at some point. Decking screws are much less likely to rust or strip out, so deconstruction and reconstruction will be less frustrating. Other materials for this project should always be of a quality that suits your specific situation. You might wish to use pressure-treated wood, but standard studs work great for this project and are much cheaper. Also, the plywood used for the back and sides can be quite thin (3/8 in.), but the top sheet has to support your garden, so make sure you get the thickest plywood you can for this.

Speaking of plywood, you might think that the sheets on the back and sides of the table are unnecessary, but that is not so. When you build a wooden frame with two-by-fours, the plywood backing secures the entire unit into place and prevents the parallelogram effect (a slipping or leaning that can lead to the entire structure collapsing, especially when hit by a sudden force).

Why raise the tent?

There are many advantages to lifting your garden off of the floor, the most important of which for hydro gardeners is a cooler reservoir. Water temperatures should be kept near 72°F, and this is much easier to do when the reservoir is kept directly on a cold concrete floor instead of in the tent, where it is under the hot, penetrating rays of an HPS lamp. Since many growers use chillers to cool reservoirs in hot summer months, it becomes easier to chill the water without adding heat directly to the plants (chillers expel hot air) when the reservoir is separated from the garden space.

Also, with the plastic grow trays now placed on the floor of the tent, there is plenty of room to raise your bright grow light. Even with it at 18 in. or more above the canopy, there is still enough spare room to hang a carbon filter and an inline fan. As a result, taller plants can be grown, so you might see an increase in yield. Also, if your plants were burned by the light before, this step will definitely improve your results.

These are only a few of the advantages of building your own garden frames. If temperatures and space are an issue in your garden, try making your own heavy-duty table. The conveniences will more than make up for any effort or cost.