Hello Maximum Yield
I am currently experiencing problems with pythium using NFT. Problems first started appearing last year and after much wailing and gnashing of teeth we decided to replace all our tables, pipes, pumps, essentially everything that came into contact with the plant water. The pythium was in our root stock plants; it was a real bad infestation due to high water temperatures and bad local water.
We cleaned everything out including all our mothers, scrubbed and disinfected floors and walls and flooded the garden with ozone for 48 hours.
Some small items we reused were soaked in household bleach then thoroughly rinsed in water.
We have now installed RO water to a 220 gallon holding tank with chiller, ozone bubblers and UV filtration. Each NTF table has it's own chiller and rack of air stones in it's own tank. The chillers keep the water at a constant 62.6°F. Clones were treated to the same method. Everything was growing lush and vigorous.
Now, four weeks into flowering, plants have suddenly again developed sickly yellowing leaves. This ugly disease is hitting us again.
Any information you could give me about further preventing this disease would be most useful? Especially regarding any additives to using RO water, as we are currently not using anything for water protection apart from those stated.
We have never experienced anything like this. After many years of working in this industry, we are almost at the end of our tether.
Rik Lambert
Dear Rik,
That sounds like a frustrating situation to have. In spite of having installed a first-rate water/nutrient handling system you are experiencing symptoms of disease, which you suspect is pythium.
It may sound simple, but is the growing medium or system staying too wet? Also, even though the reservoir temperature is totally optimal, is the temperature in the growing medium excessive, or higher than optimal?
In N.F.T., (Nutrient Flow Technique) there is typically just a film of nutrient solution surrounding the roots. In a hot environment, the temperature of the root zone may not be sufficiently protected from higher air temperatures by smaller volumes of solution, even if the solution originates into the system at optimal temperatures. The temperature inside of the growing channels should also be monitored, including the temperature of the solution in the channels. With slightly longer channel runs or slower draining channels you may find the temperature of the solution going in is optimal, while the solution coming out is not in the correct range, and may be contributing to the pythium problem you have described.
Also, what is the growing medium that your seedlings/transplants are in? If it is a slower draining medium such as peat or coco, it may be holding too much moisture around the plant’s stem once transplanted into your N.F.T. system. The material used in your starter plugs may also be heating up, although the solution in your reservoir is optimal.
Note that treating your water and growing system greatly reduces the population count of pythium spores, but it would seem virtually impossible to eliminate the fungal spores from any growing situation. Pythium spores may also be present in the surrounding air. As you are likely aware, the trick is to prevent the conditions which pythtium requires to prevail. Anytime the growing medium or root system is kept warm and wet for prolonged periods, the door for pythium infection is open. N.F.T. systems tend to be on the wet side, as the flow of solution is relatively static compared to more intensive re-circulating hydroponics systems.
I recommend the following to you:
Please feel free contact me again to confirm some of the details regarding your growing situation so that a more exacting diagnosis and solution can be formulated and shared with Maximum Yield’s readership.
Cheers, Erik Biksa