Automate Your Garden for Under $100.00

In early spring I love to plan my gardens as I wait anxiously for the last signs of frost. Even before the all clear is given, I eagerly purchase hanging pots overflowing with mixtures of colourful annuals, patio containers of exotic flowering tropicals and unique clay pots filled with assorted fragrant herbs. With the slightest threat of frost in the air I carefully move all my vulnerable (and expensive) arrangements to the safety of the garage. The next morning if the coast is clear, I replace them in their allocated spots. No corner, nook or cranny in my garden shall be left barren.

Nurseries, grocery stores and even hardware stores have all tapped into this annual multi-million dollar container gardening frenzy. Outdoor structures are erected to display a dazzling assortment of hanging baskets, urns and window boxes filled with artistic combinations of showy blooms and textured foliage. The most reluctant gardeners will be tempted to purchase one or two of these spectacular floral arrays.

Flowering containers strategically placed around the home and yard add beauty and drama to otherwise dull areas. Sales clerks guarantee that daily watering and regular nutrient feeding will ensure plants remain healthy with vigorous floral growth. Little maintenance is required to keep them lush and flowering throughout the entire season.

My annual pledge:

“I am dedicated to my garden. I will water my containers every day! I will fertilize regularly! The $500.00 I spent on annuals will not be wasted!”

Yeah … right!

Every year I pledge these exact words determined and committed to nurture my plants and provide them with the necessities of life. Every year, by mid July, my precious arrangements are dried up, spindly versions of their former selves. As the summer heat intensifies my enthusiasm diminishes: A long hot weekend of unintentional neglect and my containers already look ravished. A good soaking perks them up and they look almost as good as new. Unfortunately, there are many such negligent periods over the course of the summer, which wreak total and irreparable damage to my container plants. By summer holidays, their chances of survival were almost nil.

I found a solution that was surprisingly easy, effective and inexpensive! I set up all my containers on a simple, homemade irrigation system. No plumber or electrician; I did it all myself and it was a cinch! A reservoir, a timer, a small submersible pump, some tubing and a few fittings to hold it all together were all that I used. I can now neglect my plants for a couple of weeks without concern!

For many years I’ve witnessed growers using the ‘drip emitter system’ for their hydroponic crop production. It is the continuous feed method preferred by many commercial growers. It hadn’t occurred to me until recently that I could incorporate this hydroponic technology into my soil gardening practices. All the equipment I’ve used is available for under $100.00 at any hydroponic retail outlet. It should last for years and can easily be modified to suit changes.

For a two-week period I use a minimum of one gallon of water per four-litre plant container. (This is based on a three-gallon plastic hanging basket of annuals.) I use a square 15-gallon reservoir because it is manageable and fits inconspicuously into a corner in my garden. A decorative rain barrel would also work well but do not allow the water to stand and become stagnant. The reservoir or rain barrel should be covered to keep out breeding mosquitoes and minimize evaporation. Keeping a lid on the reservoir will also discourage the growth of slimy algae, which may damage your pump.

A small submersible pump should be adequate to reach most of the plants in your yard. Submersible pumps are available in a range of sizes, the higher the GPH (Gallons per Hour) rating the more plants it can serve and the greater distance the water can be pumped. The pump has an outlet designed to fit half-inch tubing. Attach the tubing, running enough along the ground to reach the furthest plants. Each container will feed off this main line via a smaller tube. Tubing is quite inexpensive so allow for enough to discreetly tuck and hide it wherever possible. Use an end-plug at the end of the tube to block water flow. Black or opaque tubing will work best as it is less susceptible to algae growth, which may cause clogging.

With a small device called an emitter punch or a 1/8”drill bit, puncture or drill holes for the feeder tube at the approximate location of each planter. Insert a transfer barb into the hole and attach enough of the feeder or emitter tube to reach each planter. The feeder or emitter tube is a thin (1/8”) and flexible line that unobtrusively reaches planters or hanging baskets. Insert an emitter stake into the soil of each planter and attach the feeder tube. Emitter stakes are available in two sizes, half gallon per hour or one gallon per hour format. This will allow you to regulate the flow of water to individual plants supplied by the same half-inch tube.

The submersible pump should be attached to a timer to come on for about 15 minutes a day or shorter or longer as required. The amount of “on time” will vary based on the distance the water must travel, the number of containers being served and the format of emitter stake used. Watch carefully for the first few days to make sure that all containers are receiving an adequate amount of water without over-watering.

More than one pump may be used in one reservoir to feed plants from another line. Make sure there is always enough water to keep the pumps submerged. Running the pumps dry will quickly burn out the motor.

Every two weeks, hand water the containers with a nutrient solution designed for flowering plants. I don’t recommend continuous drip feed of nutrients as it will over fertilize most annuals. A good quality liquid two-part nutrient used at half strength is an excellent feeding option as it provides all the nutritional requirements to build robust new buds and healthy floral growth. Once every couple of weeks, change the water in the reservoir or top up with fresh water as required.

This method can also be employed in a small vegetable garden or flowerbed to subsidize a regular watering schedule. If you have access to a small pond or lake it could be used for all your gardens water requirements.

I have also used the new Nutron containers in my garden. These are self watering pots manufactured from durable plastic designed to withstand the elements. Nutrons are an effective, passive system whereby plants receive water that is wicked from the self contained reservoir. The new range of colours and styles have made these self watering pots an interesting addition to my garden. They are available as hanging pots, window boxes even as pedestal planters and of course the regular floor pots. I find them especially useful for out of the way or shady areas where evaporation is not so much of a problem. Self-watering pots are excellent for plants you wish to move around or bring indoors during the winter months.

Your arrangements will need to be transplanted into the self watering pots. Carefully remove the entire root ball and all its surrounding earth from the existing pot. Spread a thin layer of pre-dampened potting soil or soilless mix on the bottom of the Nutron pot. Place the root ball and surrounding earth into the pot and top up with more damp potting soil. Slowly top water the plant until the bottom reservoir is full. This should keep the plant moist for a week or two.

My philosophy is to enjoy life to its fullest with a minimal amount of work. Automating the feeding of my planters has given me time to enjoy my garden and the confidence of knowing it will remain healthy even when I’m not around.

All the materials mentioned in this article are available at your local Hydroponic retailer.

List of Materials to automate your garden:

· Submersible Pump

· Outdoor Timer

· Emitter Punch or 1/8” Drill Bit

· Half-inch Tubing

· End Plug

· Feeder or Emitter tubing

· Transfer Barbs (one per plant)

· Emitter Stake (one per plant)

· Reservoir